April 2014
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The smell of literature, epilogue

Finalizing my series on Deconstructing Eden‘s Kushiel based perfumes,  bring you the final two scents.  In the Kushiel’s legacy series, the heroine of Phedre’s trilogy is Phèdre nó Delaunay, a pale skinned anguissette- Kushiel’s chosen to enjoy pleasure from pain.

Phedre's marque

A marque is the symbol of Naamah earned by each of her servants. Naamah was said to scratch the backs of patrons who pleased her, and the marks never faded.

Mighty Kushiel of rod and weal/Late of the brazen portals/With blood-tipped dart, a wound unhealed/Pricks the eyes of chosen mortals

Raised in Cereus House, and then the pupil of Anafiel Delaunay, she’s raised to a courtesan and spy, a weapon to protect the realm of Terre d’Ange.  Intelligent, beautiful, strong…it is why I am a little disappointed in her scent.


Fair and creamy skin, Cereus blossom (for the house she was fostered in); a touch of jasmine (for Phedre’s mother Lilliane, an adept of Jasmine House), rose for Naamah, a drop of pomegrante (for Kushiel) and a drop of red skinned apple (For Kushiel’s Dart) Devastatingly feminine, deceptively soft and yielding.

I think it was the smell of the Cereus blossom I didn’t like.  It didn’t work with my skin chemistry, sadly.  However, after a bit of time, it mellowed a lot and the scent that remained was nicer.  It’s quite soft, not overwhelming in the least.  I wish it had worked better for me.  If I had to rate it, I would go with a 6 out of 10.  Maybe a 7, after it mellows a little.

However, where there is Phèdre, standing before her was Melisande Shahrizai, our villain.  Breathtakingly beautiful, revered as one of Terre d’Ange’s greatest beauties.  Deep sapphire eyes,  hair the color of twilight and alabaster skin, her beauty was the subject of song, even after her treason.

If Phèdre was Kushiel’s chosen, Melisande was Kushiel’s scion, and Phèdre’s most dangerous opponent.  She is rich and complex, and Phèdre loves and hates her.  And her scent can be described mostly the same.

This blend opens with cinnamon, Sambac Jasmine and fresh ginger. Heart notes of a chypre accord, amber essential oil, Egyptian musk, tuberose, and spice accord. Clean skin musks, ambergris, mahogany wood, black agar, precious resins, the barest touch of patchouli to darken the blend and leather form the base notes.

Sample sized bottles

All the samples I ordered. Each came in a plastic 2 ML sample bottle.

This is very much has a hint of Kushiel and Valerian, and I am going to assume Manrake, a scent I regret not sampling.  I am quite pleased with the complexity of Melisandre. The first layer I smelled was the blend of Jasmine and Cinnamon, and then the musk, and then patchouli.  You get the hints of mahogany, and what I think is the agar and chypre accord.  It’s a delicious smell and more than makes up for me not enjoying Phèdre.  A 10 out of 10 for sure.

In the end, my favorite scents were Valerian House, Eisheth, Shemhazai, and Melisande.  I disliked Naamah, Anael and Phedre (though they weren’t bad, they just did not work for me), and actually sent them to a friend who I hope enjoyed them more than I did.  I kept the others, to wear on occasion and once I run out, I’ll probably buy one or two of the four I liked most.  Maybe three…it’s going to be so hard to pick.

I’m very excited to have found such great perfumes.  I never imagined I would enjoy wearing them as much as I have.

tl;dr?  Wear Melisande.  I yield!  Deconstructing Eden’s perfumes are worth looking into.  Don’t know the Kushiel’s Legacy series? Read it!  Or look into her Deities line, and other geeky fandom lines.  I’m sure they are just as fantastic.

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